Chiang Mai, the hill tribes & the Loy Kratong festival

Local handicrafts in the Karen village

November 2006

"Last hill" said Mr Dong, our local guide, encouragingly as we braced oursleves for what looked like the most soul-defeating climb yet. Trekking in the hills around Chiang Mai in the north of Thailand had been described as requiring a "moderate level of fitness," that the walk would simply wind its way through rice paddies and sloping farmland- there had been no mention that a good part of this trek would have challenged Tenzing. In 30 degrees+ humid and muddy conditions with heavy packs we sang, gossiped, riddled, swore and complained- anything to keep from turning around and going back. We stop once in a while, if only to reapply insect repellant in a mostly unsuccessful attempt to ward off hungry insects. This "torture" however, would only be short-lived. With every incline there is a summit, with every blister comes the wonderful relief of taking off your boots, at the end of every day there is a Thai dinner ready and waiting, a swim in cool clear rivers and the gentle and rhythmic sounds of waterfalls lulling us to dream-filled sleep. We would often go to bed at 7.30pm and luckily slept well on the bamboo slats under mosquito nets, as there was always a temporally-disoriented rooster sounding the wake-up call, sometimes as early as 4am!

We visited the Karen hill tribe. The Karen people, also known as the Yang or Kariang, live simply and now farm rice, herbs and vegetables instead of opium poppies- due to government incentives, and in the last two years, bans. Many have "converted" to Christianity if only to gain access to education for their children, but also continue to practice their traditional animist spirituality, revering nature and mountain ghosts. The children sang and in return we deep-fried some omlettes, a treat, and gave one to each child. This felt uncomfortable in a way, the children lining up for food handed out by strange foreigners, but with groups like ours passing through once per week I suppose they have encoroprated this context into their "list of things to do each Sunday." I hope they know that it is them, not the feigned altruistic element, that gives us pleasure.

Each morning the villagers would cover trees and fences in handicrafts- colourful scarves, bags, clothing and jewellery- hoping to make a little from the tourists who flash their cameras and mobile phones. There is so much poverty here, so much that is needed, but the Karen people never want for simple pleasures- the beauty of the landscape, the simplicity of a subsistance lifestyle, the collectiveness and mutual cooperation of the tribe.

"Last hill" had not exactly been accurate, but we were fast approaching the end of the trek, and while a sense of relief inescapedly washed over the group, there was also a sense of regret. The days had been strenuous but full, complete with a very touristy elephant ride and bamboo rafting, but it would be the hill tribe people, and our energetic and humble local guides and porters we would miss most.

Mr Dong and Jiab, our group leader, met us in Chiang Mai on the last night for Loy Kratong, a week-long annual celebration in Thailand to fuel good luck, education and insight. The lights (lanterns, fireworks, candles) symbolise this insight but also create a city that is electric! Bungers regularly crack under our feet, and perhaps more worryingly, under the tires of precariously balanced motorbikes. The entire city is out to watch the parade full of floats and pageants, and out to light large paper lanterns which float into the stratosphere creating a new, alien solar system. We bought floating wreaths made from coconut husks and banana leaves, covered in flowers, incense and candles and launched them into the river, the waterway burning with thousands of these offerings.

The overnight train to Bangkok the next day was rocky, long and the restaurant carriage- well lets just say I felt like I was in a very seedy gentleman's club- but we entertained ourselves with card games and tricks, books and iPods, and the time passed quickly. We slept a little and arrived to the shock of steamy, smoggy Bangkok at 6am. We had a "last breakfast" as a group and ended our northern Thailand adventure with the promise of emailing each other our photos and keeping in touch a little.


Some of the group at the Loy Kratong festival

Karen children

Ahh.. a well needed swim and bath

Karen people meet us to sell handicrafts

The group, Mr Dong and porters (Dree & "Superman")

Market food in Chiang Mai- Mmm-mmm

Elephant riding (I'm second from right)

Burning river at Loy Kratong festival

Jiab and I eating a bamboo worm (fried with chilli)

Launching my floating wreath