Tuesday

Deutschland & La France

December 2006-January 2007





Blankenau, the town where my Oma Christine lives, not far from Frankfurt

Oma's nursing home

Oma and I, my last day with her

At a Weinachtsmarkt in Fulda, the closest large town to Blankenau

Me in front of Christmas tree in Place Kleber, Strasbourg, "Capital de Noel"

Famous gothic cathedral (Munster) in Strasbourg while decorations light up to transform the city

Christmas decorations at Chez Yvonne, a famous Alsace restaurant

Place Kleber at dusk

Christmas with the family in Strasbourg, Alsace. L-R front row: Hermann (Christian's partner), Oma Fernande, Aunt Renee, Uncle Christian, Thebaut. L-R back row: Didier and my cousin Patricia (Thebaut's parents), Aunt Gaby

St Nicholas turned up. Thebaut guessed right away it was really my Uncle Christian

Nancy, where my Aunt Gaby lives, is the birthplace of Art Nouveau. I spent a week there before Paris. The next few pics are all Nancy

Im in London still

Took the tube over to Camden to wander around
I bought some funky records with that old Motown sound
And I miss you like my left arm that's been lost in a war
Today I dream of home and not of London anymore
I'm in London still, I'm in la ha London still, I'm in London still ~ Im in London Still, the Waifs

February-March 2007


Piccadilly

London Eye and Thames

Pond at dusk in St James Park, near Westminster

Big Ben through the trees

Cottage at St James Park


Des and I at her apartment drinking Bollinger

St Paul's Catedral, view from Waterloo

Girl on lion in Trafalgar Square

Monday

Shit Happens

"Um, do you think we should find another spot to stand?" We're outside of Agra, tired- it's late and we'd been up early to see the sunrise over the Taj Mahal. We were going to take an overnight train to Varanasi. Standing on the platform waiting for a train that was already one hour late and possibly not coming at all, the roosting flock of miners above were taking their aim, and with military precision and timing, managed to shit on the three members of the group who were the least likely to choose discretion over exasperation. Those miners knew what they were doing and, like hitmen on commission, targetted the Aussie girls.

Well, as usual when a bird shits on you, there is the obligatory high-pitched scream designed to let everyone know your shock, the uncontrollable gagging reaction designed to let everyone know your disgust, and the inevitable arms flapping, red-cheeked crying designed to let everyone know your distress. Arms flapping faster still, finally the "Get it off, get it off, GET IT OFF!!!!" order is repeated until someone "gets it off." This reaction from three sweet girls would usually work. People would understand that something terrible had happened and, well, then they would help. Some kind soul would say "Oh, it's good luck" after taking their last tissue to wipe the worst of it off. In two minutes, you have calmed down and perhaps even managed to fool yourself something "lucky" had happened. That's how it would go in Australia. But we were not in Australia.

In India, this reaction was fundamentally, undeniably wrong. It demonstrated much more than a lack of understanding of the way woman should carry themsleves in this culture, but also a patronising display of how spoilt we were in our own culture. Dozens of the surrounding passengers looked on like they were watching a black comedy, unsure whether to laugh or cry. In the end, some laughed. Others made clucking noises, mimicking the sounds and strange hip and arm girations we had produced, like chickens. The older onlookers just shook their heads in disbelief.

We were mortified. After helping each other remove the shit from hair, clothing and luggage we looked guiltily at Vivek, our tour leader. We knew better, it was insensitive, immature and would only serve to paint a poor picture of foreigners. He mentioned that an Indian three-year-old child would have responded better in the situation, just flicking the shit off. He was right. He was right to be disappointed.

It made me think. Was the bird shit a metaphor for the differences in our cultures? When shit happens, what do we do? We, as Westeners, reacted in a way that illustrated exactly how good we have it in our over-steralised, protected world. A world where death and injury are so often hidden or denied. We dont see hardship, yet we take life so seriously. We are an individualistic society, but have so little self-reliance. Could a less impulsive reaction have demonstrated more than self control, but a better appreciation for what is and isn't important in life?

It is not just sights and sounds that surprise the traveller. The way we see ourselves, when we are outside our safe and predictable environments, can be very surprising.

Sunday

More Paris pics


La Seine

Encore une fois

Impromptu match du foot

Outside the Centre du Pompidou

View down to Rue Barbes from my apartment

Two gorgeous girls- Julia and Katrin

Pont life

Piano accodianist on Pont Saint Michel

Busking on a Sunday

Musee du Louvre

Saturday

Paris pics


At the Musee du Louvre

Paris January-February 2007


Jardin du Luxembourg

Sunrise in Nancy

Ice skaters outside the Hotel de Ville

School children outside Notre Dame

At the Musee Picasso

Notre Dame, looks best from behind

My apartment block (4th floor) in the 18th arrondisement near Mont Martre

Katrin, Andy, Julia (German) and Katarina (Slovkian) at dinner- wonderful friends I made at Atelier 9, French school

My birthday dinner near Saint Michel at a French bistro called "Le chat qui peche" (The cat that fishes)

Julia, me and Jess (Welsh) at dinner somewhere in the Latin Quarter

Wednesday

Some kind of wonderful. A few thoughts on Paris

There are many stereotypes here. Some good, some not so complimentary and it is not easy at times to separate these preconceptions with newly formed impressions. Mostly I found that the city doesn't care what you think anyway so it's best just to experience it without analysing it, well analyse it later of course, but live in Paris without judgement nor instant adoration. Just be there. I have spent the last five weeks in a dreamy haze which I will try to make sense of without reverting to too many stale stereotypes...

It's easy to conform in Paris, the city almost begs anyone who stays longer than a few days to live the Paris way, to fit neatly into its scene, to move routinely to its pulse. No, scrap that, it inspires anyway who stays longer than a few days to live the Parisian way. To dress well for the supermarket, to walk purposefully towards a destination while still stopping every now and then to notice something beautiful, to perch tentatively on a Moped and ride the footpaths, to drink and eat with joy, patience and mindfulness, to be rude to anyone who is rude first and excite at the verbal rhetoric, to be grumpy some days, dramatic the next, to engage easily in social debate, to talk without pretense about the latest exhibition, to connect the importance of art and history to everyday life, to be protective of the French culture but to complain tirelesssly of its policies, but most of all to be energised and excited about life. The French call it joie de vivre.

But not just life's typical pleasures are embraced in this concept. Sadness, anger, and a sense of injustice are not emotions to be neglected in this city. They are what ignites the fuel to live with fervour, to give life its oomph. And in Paris no one hides these feelings because no one is scared of them. Afterall, the best art and music can be inspired by the most intense negative emotions. The historical social changes have been carried by eruptions of these feelings. I think the city itself, its close physical confines, architecture, history, contemporary culture, it's all out on display. It's like the city screams "Here I am, take it or leave it!" You would be crazy to leave it. Paris knows this, it has a confidence that allows such ultimatums. The same can be said of the people. They say, "This is me, me on a bad day, me on a good day, either day it's still me. Take it or leave it!"

Well, this attitude unsuprisingly gives a person a wonderful sense of freedom. With such confidence, of being unafraid to make negative impressions, to welcome strong emotions, to never be embarrassed to speak their mind, a person can feel an energy and waitlessness they have never experienced before.

I am in love, in love with this city because of how it makes me feel, this very energy and waitlessness. And I speak of love, not infatuation. I have been infatuated before on this trip. No, when it's infatuation it's promoted by a distance and coldness. Or better, an untennableness, like I want to understand but never will, because the place hides and wont show me. But love, love is only felt when there is more than a sense of wonder. Like with people, love is felt when there is fearlessness, because there is the knowldege of acceptance and a deep respect. Paris is not distant nor cold. It likes the way it is, wants the world to be Paris and hence will share it with any visitor. It will always treat the romantic well. Do not believe otherwise.

I came knowing I would like this city, I had been here before. But to experience this relationship with a place other than home is a gift and the beginning of what I feel will be a life-long love affair. It may be a long-distance affair, but it will always be love.

Easy Goan In Goa

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness... broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime ~ Mark Twain

December 2006


Sunset (it's on the west coast) at Palolem. I stayed in one of those beach huts on stilts

Vince (French), me, Dawn (Canadian) and Ty (Canadian) at dinner on the beach. The best tuna I have ever eaten

Fishermen untangling their nets

View on a bushwalk

Sunbaking cow

Nico (German), me and Dawn on Colba beach

Fresh juice at the Anjuna markets

Local children at Anjuna